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利用水波动力学中的浅水Stokes波理论建立了随机波统计模式,并由此导出了浅水非线性海浪的波高概率分布函数.所导出的以浅水波陡和浅水因子作为参数的波高概率分布在物理上更为合理.这两个参数既可作为控制波高分布函数变化的参量,又能通过它们体现波高分布偏离瑞利分布的程度.新的波高分布克服了瑞利分布大波预报过高,而众值预报过低的不足之处;同时也使得小概率对应的波高值比瑞利分布预报的为低.浅水波陡的作用与深水情况类似,而浅水因子的作用则体现在分布众值对应的波高随着浅水因子的变小而逐渐降低以及浅水波浪分布更为集中等方面.资料验证表明,本文结果更具合理性.
Based on the shallow Stokes wave theory in water wave dynamics, a stochastic wave statistical model is established, and the wave height probability distribution function of the shallow water nonlinear wave is deduced. The wave height distribution derived from the shallow water wave steep and shallow water factors as a parameter is derived from the physical On the other hand, these two parameters can not only be used as parameters to control the variation of wave height distribution function, but also reflect the deviation of wave height distribution from Rayleigh distribution.The new wave height distribution overcomes the Rayleigh distribution wave forecasting too high, But also makes the corresponding value of small probability lower than that predicted by Rayleigh distribution.The effect of shallow water wave steepness is similar to that of deep water and the effect of shallow water factor is reflected in the distribution of corresponding values The wave height decreases gradually with the decrease of the shallow water factor and the distribution of the shallow water wave is more concentrated. The data verification shows that the result in this paper is more reasonable.