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去年一部明星云集的贺岁电影《魔幻厨房》的热播,使得“私房菜”突然成为了餐饮界的时尚代名词,并悄悄流行。北京一家以提供订餐服务为主的网站——钣桶网市场运营总监杨芸说,去年与他们签约的私房菜馆只有十几家,而今年增加到了近一百家。“私房菜”一词源于清末食家薛兴国的著作《吃一碗文化》。光绪年间有一位祖籍广东的世家子弟叫谭缘青,其祖辈世袭官爵并且均嗜好美食,其父谭宗浚更把家乡粤菜与京菜相结合创制出谭家菜,在北京名声大振。后家道中落,迫于经济压力,谭缘青便以筵席方式做其拿手的谭家菜来补贴家计。但每晚只做三桌,并且必须在三天前预订。当时的达官贵人都以吃过其私房菜为荣,最紧张时订位要等一个月。谭家菜流传至今,
Last year, a celebrity-starring Lunar New Year movie “Magic Kitchen” hit, making “private kitchens” suddenly became synonymous with the fashion industry, and quietly popular. According to Yang Yun, director of market operations at Zhangzhou Barrel Net, a Beijing-based website that provides catering services, only a dozen private-owned restaurants contracted with them last year and this year increased to almost 100. The term “private kitchens” originated from the book “A bowl of culture” by the late Qing Dynasty gourmet Xue Xingguo. During the reign of Emperor Guangxu, an ancestor of Guangdong’s ancestral home called Tan Yuanqing and his ancestor’s hereditary official innkeeper also dined on food. His father, Tan Zongjun, even created a Tanjia dish with his hometown of Cantonese cuisine and Beijing cuisine and gained fame in Beijing. After the descendants of Dowager, due to economic pressure, Tan Yuen-ching banquet will do their best to subsidize the family Tan family food. But only three tables per night and must be booked three days in advance. VIPs at that time were eaten proud of their private kitchens, booking the most nervous wait a month. Tan family dishes so far,