读贵刊1997年第1期袁诹的文章《“大闸蟹”试释》,袁文把“闸”解释为吴方言词,指一种烹饪方法,可能是指“在水中煮熟”,也可能是“以沸油致熟”。这里面有几点是袁文不能自圆其说的: 一、“大闸蟹”的烹饪方法是清蒸,而不是放在水里,更不是落到油锅里炸熟。二、“大闸蟹”指的是活生生的蟹,而不是煮好了或炸好了的蟹。据我所知,阳澄湖的蟹被叫做“大闸蟹”,那是源自 Read your article No. 1, 1997 Yuan article “” crab “try to explain,” Yuan “the” brake “is interpreted as Wu Dialect words, refers to a cooking method may refer to” cooked in the water, “may also be Is ”cooked with boiling oil.“ There are a few points which Yuan Wen can not justify: First, ”crabs“ cooking method is steamed, rather than on the water, not to fall into the pan fried. Second, ”crabs“ refers to living crabs, not cooked or fried crabs. As far as I know, Yangcheng Lake crab is called ”crabs", that is derived from