(一) 在江苏南部地区的乡村,腊月的二十四,一到夜里,是一年中最为隆重热烈的时刻之一,当地人叫做“廿四夜”。 早早地,每户农家都到村里磨坊把自家当年的糯米细细地碾成细滑柔白的“细面”。这样的“细面”,是当地人很为珍视的。我的童年在江苏阳澄湖边度过,每到春节,常见当地人把细面作为馈赠亲友的礼物,因为此面细密绵软,还有人拿它来止血,极灵验。这种细面给我留下了很深的印象,常想,受这种糯糯的细面滋养的苏南人,是没有理由 (1) In the villages of southern Jiangsu province, the twelfth lunar month, one night, is one of the most grand and warm times of the year. The locals call it “24 Nights.” Early, every farmhouse went to the mill in the village to grind the glutinous rice in its own house into a fine, smooth “vermicelli.” This kind of “fine flour” is very valued by locals. My childhood spent in Yangcheng Lake, Jiangsu Province, every Spring Festival, the common local people to the fine as a gift to relatives and friends, because this area is dense and soft, and some people take it to stop bleeding, very experimental. I was impressed with this fine surface, and I often think there is no reason why the Sunnourians, nourished by the fine waxy glutinous surface