(一)前言目前防浪墙和防波堤这类的护岸建筑物的设计方法实质上是以水力模型和经验公式(计算)为基础的。由于波浪往往在这些建筑物的斜坡上发生破碎,应用解析法和数值方法均很困难。科巴亚希(Kobayashi)和杰科布斯(Jacobs)建立了一个简单的分析模式来预报规则波下冲时引起的水流特征。然而,这个模式是以有限振幅浅水方程的驻波解为基础,用经验关 (I) Preface The current design methods of revetment structures such as wave-proof walls and breakwaters are essentially based on hydraulic models and empirical formulas (computations). As waves often break on the slopes of these buildings, both analytic and numerical methods are difficult. Kobayashi and Jacobs have established a simple analytical model to predict the characteristics of water currents caused by a wave under the rules. However, this model is based on the standing wave solution of the shallow-amplitude equations of finite amplitude and is empirically tested